Axis percussion pedals with E-kits

[Solel]

Hello,

I just wanted to start off by saying hi to everyone on this forum. I joined yesterday and this is my first post. Thanks for all the great posts; there is a lot of useful information on here. One topic that I could not find any information on, is concerning the AXIS percussion ekit.

I am in the process of converting my acoustic set to electronic and I feel it is time to upgrade my pedals as well. I have my eyes set on AXIS A21, the Derek Roddy signature pedals, and these bad boys come with axiss' ekits. I think these are a great idea, but since I am planning on getting myself a MegaDrum module (the reason why I am here... ), I want to make sure that the ekits work properly. There is a lot of talk about pads being too hot. Is there anything I should know about this issue? Piezo size etc? I know there is loads of threads on this, but do direct me in the right direction, the more information you can give me the better. I am also interested in knowing if anyone is using any pintech visulite cymbals? I saw information on that Dmitri got a pintech cymbal to work, but I am specifically interested in the visulite Hi-hat, and the rest of their cymbals.

Thank you for your time.

[Maylord.war]

Hi

If you refer to this type http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/p1010314y.jpg/ i can confirm the compatibility with Megadrum.

I don't remember if the signal are "hot" but for the kick drum is not relevant, because the kick drum Triggering are frequently high velocity.

[Solel]

Those are it. Thank you for confirming that, and yes, kicks, which I should have thought of, are definitely high velocity. Alright, time to buy new pedals then. What do you think about the Pintech Visulite hi-hat? Have you done any successful conversions/builds?

I'll make sure to start a thread when I begin my A2E conversion.

Thank you for your reply.

[Maylord.war]

Hi

If you want more dynamics on the kick triggering you can add in series a voltage divider to reduce the signal of piezo (if are too hot) .

Regarding the Pintech visualite hihat i don't have info, but the structure of this pad is very easy to build.

You can buy at your local store a couple of 14" cymbal practice pad, like this http://www.rockemmusic.com/product/plas ... cymbal-set

Put a piezo and a jack under the upper cymbal and that's it ( To reduce noise applies a layer of neoprene or some rubber sheet)

And finally, yes, i have converted my drum kit with cone (Roland style) and mesh head. Actually i use a couple of yamaha cymbal. If you want here is the link of my little test for the 3zone with choke. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YI-9U7znqA&noredirect=1

[Solel]

Thank you for the reply. I want to underline that I am a total newbie at this, so talk to me like I'm a kid and pictures always helps, and exactly which part it is (link).

When you say voltage dividers, are you talking about 100 k pots or something else? How would I add these to gear that already have the piezos in place? I know I am going to have to configure and run into problems, but I am first and foremost a drummer, not a DIY person, so very interested in something that will work well.

The DIY hi hat that you describe, will that work with a regular hi hat stand? Concerning that practice pad, I'm in the US, but have seen similar.

I will let you know when I have all the parts, just saving up.

Thanks!

Hi

If you want more dynamics on the kick triggering you can add in series a voltage divider to reduce the signal of piezo (if are too hot) .

Regarding the Pintech visualite hihat i don't have info, but the structure of this pad is very easy to build.

You can buy at your local store a couple of 14" cymbal practice pad, like this http://www.rockemmusic.com/product/plas ... cymbal-set

Put a piezo and a jack under the upper cymbal and that's it ( To reduce noise applies a layer of neoprene or some rubber sheet)

And finally, yes, i have converted my drum kit with cone (Roland style) and mesh head. Actually i use a couple of yamaha cymbal. If you want here is the link of my little test for the 3zone with choke. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YI-9U7znqA&noredirect=1

[dmitri]

For a voltage divider see http://www.megadrum.info/forums/viewtop ... 911#p11911

[Maylord.war]

Hi Solel

The trigger box from axis have a piezo inside the metal structure.

For first , i suggest to try how works the trigger without the voltage divider, If you are not satisfied you can build a jack cable with a potentiometer or resistor's.

The connection is very easy, Axis trigger --> Diy jack cable with pot --> Megadrum

For the schematics see the link posted by Dmitri.

If you build a cymbal As I wrote above yes you can use a standard hihat stand BUT you need a Hihat controller.

Here some links project:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1522

http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php? ... t-Megadrum

http://vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php? ... post579746


If it's hard for you the way of DIY i suggest to buy separately the Hihat controller from Pintech Visualite , I have no other information about this, sorry.

[Solel]

Dimitri: Thank you for sharing the information. Unfortunately I am not familiar with the schematics, I need it to be simplified, but I can get to that when I get started with my build. I personally think people keep asking the same questions in the forum because, when you do a search the answer you are looking for might not be simple enough or even the right answer. I have personally search the forum for the "hot" topic, and I still feel a bit at a loss. It is actually through google searches I have been getting a better understanding of it. I think if there were simplified posts that went through certain common issues at a very detailed level, you guys would not have to deal with people like me. I will contact you concerning getting a 56 input module later on btw.

Maylord.war: Thanks to you as well for helping me out. I understand the functionality of the EKIT, it is just how to fix the hot levels that is the problem. If I understand you correctly, when you say "build a jack cable" you are talking about adding resistors to an actual 1/4" instrument cable right? Something that would look similar to this: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_BGB-FuSV33o/S ... omono1.JPG - Otherwise I would have to disassemble the ekit box and solder it within that 1/4 female output jack, like this: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6732 ... 2f05_z.jpg - If I can just modify the actual cables themselves, that makes it a lot easier. I just need to figure out what kind of resistors I need and where in the cable to solder them (tip, ring, sleeve). If I am understanding the schematics that Dimitri posted, it looks like 47k resistors?

I hope I got something right.

[dmitri]

If I understand you correctly, when you say "build a jack cable" you are talking about adding resistors to an actual 1/4" instrument cable right? Something that would look similar to this: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_BGB-FuSV33o/S ... omono1.JPG - Otherwise I would have to disassemble the ekit box and solder it within that 1/4 female output jack, like this: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6732 ... 2f05_z.jpg - If I can just modify the actual cables themselves, that makes it a lot easier.

You can do it either way, whichever is easier for you.

I just need to figure out what kind of resistors I need and where in the cable to solder them (tip, ring, sleeve). If I am understanding the schematics that Dimitri posted, it looks like 47k resistors?

In the schematics are variable 47k resistors. With variable resistors you can change output level. You can simplify the schematic by using a single regular resistor in-line with signal wires (tips and rings). The best value of the resistor you will need to find with trials - it may be 10k-47k. In fact, it may turn out you don't need any of these since your pads are "cool" enough. None of my pads/cymbals (Roland, Pintech, Drumtec, Yamaha) need any voltage dividers.

[Solel]

Well, it would probably be smarter to do it in the cable, no chance of messing up an expensive product.

When I initially looked at the schematics I did not even know what was tip, ring, sleeve, but I did some research and figured out that part. I still need to do some more research to actually figure out what gets soldered where; I am getting closer to understanding though. When I do my snare and toms, I might just add a pot to every drum so I have that option. Very interesting that you do not need any voltage dividers with your setup. Do you think this has to do with people not setting up their modules correctly?

Do you have a post here on the forum with your current setup?

Thank you for your prompt responses, I really appreciate it.

If I understand you correctly, when you say "build a jack cable" you are talking about adding resistors to an actual 1/4" instrument cable right? Something that would look similar to this: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_BGB-FuSV33o/S ... omono1.JPG - Otherwise I would have to disassemble the ekit box and solder it within that 1/4 female output jack, like this: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6732 ... 2f05_z.jpg - If I can just modify the actual cables themselves, that makes it a lot easier.

You can do it either way, whichever is easier for you.

I just need to figure out what kind of resistors I need and where in the cable to solder them (tip, ring, sleeve). If I am understanding the schematics that Dimitri posted, it looks like 47k resistors?

In the schematics are variable 47k resistors. With variable resistors you can change output level. You can simplify the schematic by using a single regular resistor in-line with signal wires (tips and rings). The best value of the resistor you will need to find with trials - it may be 10k-47k. In fact, it may turn out you don't need any of these since your pads are "cool" enough. None of my pads/cymbals (Roland, Pintech, Drumtec, Yamaha) need any voltage dividers.