www.megadrum.info

Hey,

Well, I thought I was done but apparently I was a little quick on the drawn. At one brief point just before i finished mounting in its case I had connected to my windows box and it did show up as "megadrum". However after I put it all in the case and hooked it back up I accidently put the usb connector on backwards, . I'm honestly not sure what this could case if anything but it will only show up as "unknown usb audio input device" on Windows and has absolutely no usb activity at all on my macbook (although it still does turn megadrum on) and its the only thing I can think of that might have caused it at this point.. The solder joints all look very good to me and I'm not a beginner solderer.

I had also up until this point just assumed my inputs worked as it turned on and I could go through the menus.. but I realized that wasn't the case. No midi activity or input level movement on any of the inputs. I was using the pcb layout synthex I made but I also tried jacks connected directly to the pins on the main board with the jack board unglugged. I tried touching a few pins on the main board together but pins 3 and 5 were the only two that would produce any activity, which did produce both midi and VU activity. I tired switching chips to the max ones but no help.

Is there anyway putting the usb on backwards could cause either of these issues? and if not, where should I go next in troubleshooting?

I have a spare pic18f2250 and atmega32-16pu (not the 644 V like came in your kit) sitting around to test with if I have to. I'd prefer other possibilities first if there are any. My windows box has a serial port but no parallel port so I could program the pic18f2250 pretty easily. Is it possible maybe I erased the pic182550 or would windows not even pick it up at all at that point?

I know the atmega from synthex has a bootloader in it but I can't get midiox to see it so I can't try updating it... aaaaaarg

Thoughts?

USB backwards? I.e. reverse power polarity? You may have already damaged both Atmega and PIC18F2550. The only way to test is to use other chips. You will have to find a PC with parallel port to program a blank Atmega.

Thats absolutely awesome because I can't get access to a parallel port. Not a single computer I've checked has had one at my work... and the only people I know that have computers with a paralell port are older boxes being used as linux servers which I can't use..

Why would the menu be working properly if there was a problem with the atmega.... ?

well.. looks like I'm stuck. perfect.

Because reverse power may not necessarily damage all units in MCU, e.g. it may have only damaged ADC.
I have a PC with parallel port, you're welcome to come and I'll program your Atmega.

lol.. I truly appreciate the offer but I think Nova Scotia Canada might be a little far away.

It really does suck but I guess s#$t happens.

Can you think of any reason I shouldn't be able to program the pic18f2550 on my serial port and get usb working again and just keep trying to find a parallel port on a windows computer?

xploited wrote:Can you think of any reason I shouldn't be able to program the pic18f2550 on my serial port and get usb working again and just keep trying to find a parallel port on a windows computer?

If all is done correctly, there is no reason you should not be able to program another pic18f2550.

Allright.

I finally got the parts I needed to make the cables and starting programming this evening. The Atmega seems to have went perfectly. I used a atmega32-pu16 and changed the crystal to 16mhz on the board.The hex I burnt to the Atmega was megadrum32_16_32_20080604.hex. I'm also getting midi activity and such on a good number of the channels. Still not all are working but I'm going to double check my jack pcb's before I worry about that.

The PIC18F2550 is not quite the same case.

I'll explain in as much detail as possible to ease troubleshooting.

At first I was unable to program the pic at all in winpic. It would read, erase and everything but I would get a programming error, very similar to the error in the other pic18f2250 problem thread. I don't have this error avil but I do have it saved if you think you need to know exactly what it was. It was different from the other thread, but only 2 lines long.

So after I realized winpic800 was a different program I went and got that to try. After setting up the options properly it would burn the chip correctly, verify the chip correctly and seemed to work fine. Nothing on any computer USB wise though, no add hardware interface or anything in any device manager at all. I have the hex output of the read from in winpic800 and attached below as winpic800dumpAfterProgram.hex. I also have the same read in winpic ReadInWinpicAfterWrite.hex.

When it still wouldn't work I decided to try the another members suggestion in the pic18f2550 thread and installed mplab from microchip and configured winpic like he suggested.

I then burnt the hex file (yes, I'm using V2) using winpic (not winpic 800 this time) and it worked this time. Verified correctly and again seemed to be just perfect. Still no usb however detection on any computers (including mac's). I attached the hex from the winpic read after this program as well. programgoodInWinPIC.hex

voltage appear normal as well...

I'm at a loss as to what to try next... I mean, it keeps saying it burnt correctly!

If you need any other hex's let me know.. I can reprogramming and take a few more if needed.

I just tried programming it twice more in both winpic and winpic800 and have 4 reads (all from winpic) from all sucessful programs.

On the computer Im programming on I got it to come up with a add interface dialogue for a "USB audio device" once, but it did not install properly and will not come up again no matter what I try... my other windows box, which it was not programmed on won't pick it up at all.

Is it possible this is being cause be some other error???????? agraeagerfaw!!!

Is the crystal for PIC18F2550 exactly 12MHz?
Is the 3k3 resistor from pin 1 of PIC18F2550 to Vcc properly soldered?
With a tester check continuity from pins 15 and 16 of PIC18F2550 to pins 2 and 3 of USB plug at the other end of the USB cable (which you plug into a PC).

Also make a screenshots of the list of devices in the "Device Manager" with "Sound, video and game controllers" and "Universal Serial Bus Controllers" expanded both when MegaDrum is unplugged and when it is plugged in.