Cables resistor specifics
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 11:18 pmI'm waiting on a Megadrum brain to show up. While I'm waiting, I wanted to modify some cables so that I am ready to work with the brain and pads that I have.
Dmitri sent me links with all the info I would need to get started, except I'm not 100% clear on where and how the resisters are added to cables.
I will try to boil this down to individual issues.
The resister it's self:
It sounds like 1/4" 5% resisters will be ok
It also appears I should make 10K 15K and 20K resistor cables to test varying controllers and pads.
It also sounds like most of the time 10K is enough. I say this because of the setting file descriptions that are available for download.
Will overpowered (say 1 watt) resisters help or hurt vs say a 1/4 watt?
Dmitri did reply with this:
P.S. for a "hot" pad ( or zone) a resistor must be soldered in-line. i.e. for the head/bow zone in-line on the tip wire and for the rim/edge zone in-line on the ring wire.
P.S.S. wattage of these resistors doesn't matter. You may need to try different values of the resistor between 10K-20K. If your pads are not too "hot" you may not need them at all.
I don't fully understand that either. I can't define "In-line", does that imply both ends of the resister are connected to the same wire? More than likely he is defining "in-line" as a series connection where the wire is broken and the resister is inserted.
Where EXACTLY does each end of the resister get connected too?
Here are three different configurations I can imagine:
Do I break the connection and insert the resister (series) so that the specific connection (both Tip or ring?) will now have 15K resistance?
Or do I solder both ends of the resister to the wire (parallel) in essence shorting out the resister? (Both tip and ring?)
Or do I solder one end to the tip and the other end to the sleeve? forcing 15K resistance between the tip and ring?
Are there any small variable resisters on the market in the 5-30K range so I can make one cable for testing the best resistance?
I could not find any pictures of a modified cable, only a single unclear schematic. If any have a photo of a modified cable that's worth 1000 words.
Understanding what the desired result is would also clear things up. Do we want a cable with 15K resistance from one tip to the other tip and one ring to the other ring? or 15K resistance from the tip to the ring? Or something else?
Should I consider adding resisters to the inputs on the brain rather then the cables so that my cables will still work with a TD-30 and the Megadrum?
Because of some other issues, I may end up using both brains....see my thread "As good as it gets"
Note, my pads are: (5) Hart Pro, (4) CY-15R, Pintech 18" 3 way Cymbal, Roland 12" hats, KD-120, and Trick pedal triggers.
Dmitri sent me links with all the info I would need to get started, except I'm not 100% clear on where and how the resisters are added to cables.
I will try to boil this down to individual issues.
The resister it's self:
It sounds like 1/4" 5% resisters will be ok
It also appears I should make 10K 15K and 20K resistor cables to test varying controllers and pads.
It also sounds like most of the time 10K is enough. I say this because of the setting file descriptions that are available for download.
Will overpowered (say 1 watt) resisters help or hurt vs say a 1/4 watt?
Dmitri did reply with this:
P.S. for a "hot" pad ( or zone) a resistor must be soldered in-line. i.e. for the head/bow zone in-line on the tip wire and for the rim/edge zone in-line on the ring wire.
P.S.S. wattage of these resistors doesn't matter. You may need to try different values of the resistor between 10K-20K. If your pads are not too "hot" you may not need them at all.
I don't fully understand that either. I can't define "In-line", does that imply both ends of the resister are connected to the same wire? More than likely he is defining "in-line" as a series connection where the wire is broken and the resister is inserted.
Where EXACTLY does each end of the resister get connected too?
Here are three different configurations I can imagine:
Do I break the connection and insert the resister (series) so that the specific connection (both Tip or ring?) will now have 15K resistance?
Or do I solder both ends of the resister to the wire (parallel) in essence shorting out the resister? (Both tip and ring?)
Or do I solder one end to the tip and the other end to the sleeve? forcing 15K resistance between the tip and ring?
Are there any small variable resisters on the market in the 5-30K range so I can make one cable for testing the best resistance?
I could not find any pictures of a modified cable, only a single unclear schematic. If any have a photo of a modified cable that's worth 1000 words.
Understanding what the desired result is would also clear things up. Do we want a cable with 15K resistance from one tip to the other tip and one ring to the other ring? or 15K resistance from the tip to the ring? Or something else?
Should I consider adding resisters to the inputs on the brain rather then the cables so that my cables will still work with a TD-30 and the Megadrum?
Because of some other issues, I may end up using both brains....see my thread "As good as it gets"
Note, my pads are: (5) Hart Pro, (4) CY-15R, Pintech 18" 3 way Cymbal, Roland 12" hats, KD-120, and Trick pedal triggers.