www.megadrum.info

I would like to start this thread where all of us who have built Megadrum can list any and all mistakes we have made when building it so that others don't make the same mistakes...

I will list the mistakes I have made, and I hope we can all contribute to it.

1) Make sure you install the ICU's correctly with pin 1 in the correct location.

2) Make sure you install the 2 diodes properly, "THESE HAVE POLARITY" Unlike the resistors which do not.
(This mistake alone was the cause of all my headaches)

3) Make sure you do not purchase Toggle on/off buttons, you have to get momentary buttons.

4) Only use rosin core solder, and be very careful not to take too long applying solder so that you don't overheat
components. If you don't have any soldering skills I suggest watching this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

The LED also has polarity. I originally installed it backwards . This was helpful in determining the proper way to install: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical ... y_of_a_LED

You can also read the FAQ section at the end of the post : viewtopic.php?f=3&t=456



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The components must be located on the side of the top white silk screening.
You just need soldering on the bottom side.
Holes on the pcb are copper coated to connect both sides of the board.

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Component label = PCB label

yellow violet black gold = 47
brown black brown gold = 100
red red brown gold = 220
yellow violet brown gold = 470
brown black red gold = 1k
yellow violet red gold = 4k7
blue red red gold = 6k2
brown black orange gold = 10k
yellow violet orange gold = 47k

15 = 15pF
22 = 22pF
104 = 100nF
D224 = 220nF
470nk = 470nF

12.000 = 12MHz
16.000 = 16MHz
20.000 = 20MHz

There is no polarity for these components

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For the LCD, you can use for the "R lcd" :
- A 100 ohms resistor or less for the White / Blue LCD
- A 470 ohms resistor or less for the Blue / Black LCD
- A 47 ohms or less or no resistor for the Green / Black LCD

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The bigger than the other resistors provided, with a SILVER ring, is the inductor, go on the spot labelled "1mH".

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With your kit, you must use the 16 MHz crystal, go on the spot labelled "16MHz 20MHz".

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Atmega32/324/644 all have the same pinout.

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Red push-buttons must be wired between the "C" pin (common) and the "NO" pin (normally-off).

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1N4148 component (diode) has a polarity.
On the PCB, the square pad is the positive.
On the component, the black ring (or yellow) is the positive.

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check, recheck, sleep on it and then recheck your part order(s). Nothing like having your PCB all mounted and then finding out that your a few 100nF caps short and your Atmega doesn't have a socket... (not only is a frustrating but the extra $7 is annoying)

This should be a sticky