"Realistic" Hi Hat idea suggestions invited

[ctasker]

Hi all
I'm new to the DIY v Drums world so I'm really just dipping my toes into the water so to speak.

My current setup is a Roland TD-3, Roland CY 8 Hi Hat pad with a Jobeky Hi Hat controller (that doesn't seem to work properly) mounted
on a standard Hi-Hat stand, CY 8 Cymbals and Jobeky Snare and Toms and the original Roland Kick KD-8.
I'm getting fed up with my TD-3, it is expanded to the max and I have recently lost the rim functionality of two of the stereo inputs
I hope to upgrade the module in the new year to either a Megadrum or a TD 10 or 12 depending on if there are any bargains out there.

My goal is to try to get a V-Drum setup that is as close as possible spatialy and in terms of feel while being as quiet as possible.

Right now apart from the module issue my Hi hat setup is bothering me. I find myself leaning to one side to reach it as I have a
double bass pedal setup and so I can't move the small Hi Hat pad/stand any closer to the snare with this current setup.

So here is what I'm thinking as an upgrade solution;
I've been looking at the Hall Effect sensor attached below the hi hat pedal as a very elegant solution to the hi hat controller.
(viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1676&start=10)

I was thinking to get a 14" plastic practice cymbal as the lower hi hat cymbal and mounting a Yamaha PCY 155 cymbal above it.
I know there is a size mismatch there but I can't seem to find a 15" plastic cymbal for the base but I don't think it should be an issue.
So the 15" is a bit bigger than what most people use but I'm trying to minimize the distance from the snare for the reason I mentioned.

If what i'm suggesting works right I'm thinking it will move and feel much closer to a real hi hat pair of cymbals.
Also it would be a nice feature to be able to play the hi hat bell too.

Can any experieced guys on the forum weigh in as to if there is a problem with what I'm suggesting, that It might not work
the way I'm imagining it or if I'm missing something that might cause a problem.

Not sure if my TD-3 would be compatible with this type of controller but If I get a new module later that won't be an issue anymore.

C

[everson]

I just answered you on vdrums forum ...
Anyway, hall effect hh won`t work on TD3. Works great on MD.

[ctasker]

Thanks, I saw that. So did it take you long to make the transition from using the TD-3 to Megadrum.
Looks like I will have lots of issues with overly hot cymbal pads and mesh heads if I make the move.

[everson]

MD offers much more possibilities/tuning/tweaking. Not to mention more inputs ...
You will have to cool down the pads, but that`s pretty easy.
We`re here (and there ) to help you if you need any help

[ctasker]

I appreciate it. Thanks

I was wondering if since I already own a TD-3 and am not likely to get much for selling it, would it be possible
to use the TD-3 to slave into a Megadrum for the purpose of cooling down the hottest pads/mesh heads and
then using the rest of the megadrum inputs for and additional pads that are putting out a more manageable signal.

I just don't fancy the idea of having to pull apart every pad in my kit to start rewireing everything and invalidating
any warranties in the process. Don't really like the idea of having an ugly looking DIY voltage divider hanging off of
every cable input going into the module either.

[ibanman555]

The easiest way is to pick up some resistors or 100k potentiometers and wire them in line with either the tip or ring of the cable you are connecting to the drum. No surgery on the drum nessesary...

[ibanman555]

If your interested in building your own cables, you could even put a resistor right inside the connector itself... clean work.

[ctasker]

If your interested in building your own cables, you could even put a resistor right inside the connector itself... clean work.

I thought there was an issue that you had to have one resistor or trimpot per edge if you have dual zone cymbals for example.
Does your suggestion of wiring inside the jack enclosure overcome this issue?

[ibanman555]

If your interested in building your own cables, you could even put a resistor right inside the connector itself... clean work.

I thought there was an issue that you had to have one resistor or trimpot per edge if you have dual zone cymbals for example.
Does your suggestion of wiring inside the jack enclosure overcome this issue?

That's correct. A dual zone pad or cymbal uses both tip and ring to transmit the data, and a resistor would have to be put in line on each. Resistors are small enough to fit inside an enclosure of a 1/4" jack.

I chose to build a 'patchbay' of sorts instead for adjustability.

Basically I/O in the back of a rack and 2 pots, one for bow and one for edge to adjust my resistance accordingly. Everson has also done something similar, you can see in his build photos.

[everson]

Or you could use this approach ...