* If you're going to use 2 jacks do NOT wire the jacks together with wires
That picture I posted is elrules's current setting. Maybe I'm wrong but I believe it has been tested and it actually works... All other Roland diagrams show 1 piezo per jack. I thought this way of wiring
one piezo to two switches could maybe avoid some crosstalk. But you're saying that it CANNOT work is that it?
* Each switch needs only 2 wires, 1 wire from each of the individual plates, with 1 plate wired to ring and the other plate to sleeve/ground (like you have in the left jack in your diagram)
If I was using a pratice cymbal it would all make sens to me. But my question is mostly based on the fact that I thought my acoustic cymbal would replace one plate.
So the first plate (made of aluminium, copper or whatever conductive material) would be wired to Ring. That's fine. But what about the second plate (in my case the cymbal itself) how exactly do I ground it? I've never seen a clear explanation of that! Should I solder a wire going from my cymbal to Sleeve? It doesn't sound right at all!! Atleast I have never read that anywhere!
* Not to confuse you as this makes it more complicated, but you could save yourself a jack and wire both switches to the same ring/sleeve on the same jack (that's correct, both switches wired to the exact same posts on the exact same jack) by using a single 10K resistor on the edge switch where it's wired to the ring and then setting the MegaDrum to use the Yamaha style triggers. This is detailed here: viewtopic.php?p=3878#p3878
I know. You've already spent a lot of time explaining this setting to me.
I might still do it, but the reason why I'm
trying to avoid the Yamaha 3 zone setting, is that :
- I dont mind loosing a jack input for each of my cymbals
- I'm not sure if NI Battery 3 would support that setting
- I dont want to build any box!! And using resistors would force me to.
- I already bought female jack connectors (see picture under) thinking that I could avoid building these boxes and simply wire my piezos to those connectors (that would be fixed on my cymbal's stand)
db7c_1_b.JPG
- And finally, everytime I buy an electronic part I get ripped off with the shippins fees. And buying these cheap resistors would still add to the total cost!
But I know, I know... Now that Megadrum supports the Yamaha style, trying to avoid it is almost illogical! Maybe I should punch mylsef in the nose and realize that I just HAVE TO build boxes, buy extra resistors and just risk it!
One extra question (you know, just in case
)...
Everyone who talks about Yamaha 3 zone based cymbals keep refering to this diagram:
aas.gif
But as Beetmaker already asked (but got no clear answer), would this also work? :
yammi2.gif
In other words, no extra capacitor, resistor and variable controller needed on the Tip side?
Whatever setting I choose I still have these HUGE doubts about the whole choke/switch concept! I dont understand how a switch could be as responsive (in terms of dynamics) as a real cymbal having a piezo directly sticked to it! + Every material I can think of is either too thick of too thin. It seems they wont be flexible enough or will just start to bend on the cymbal after being hit too often! Time will tell if I'm wrong!
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